09/11/2024: Mhamid el ghizlan to Oued Remt
First of all, I want to thank the people who helped me prepare for this crossing: Si Khalifa El Mharzi, his brother Si Mubarak El Mharzi, and finally Si Abass Sebaai. These men made many things easier for me and supported me in preparing all the equipment, including the nomad who will travel with me.
Thank you, Si Khalifa, for the stay in your camp where I felt just like home. Thank you, Si Mubarak, for the cups of tea, for your wisdom in conversations and interactions. And thank you, Si Sebaei, for your kind attitude, for arranging all the logistics in Mhamid, and for your cheerful spirit.
We left Mhamid around 2 p.m., after spending the morning preparing and packing our gear onto the camel. Our camel this time was different from the two camels I used on my Zguid and Merzouga crossings, this time we had only one camel, nicknamed “Chguer” because of his blond color.
The nomad traveling with me was Si Manssour Taher, a well-known person in Mhamid El Ghizlan. I had struggled to find someone reliable to accompany me on this crossing and help manage the camel, until Si Abass and Si Mubarak recommended him. I met him with my wife, explained the itinerary and the duration of the journey. We agreed that I would be responsible for the route and he would take care of the camel. I thank him deeply for his courage and for standing by his word.
Our first night was spent in Oued Remt, under the shade of letel (Tamarist) tree.
10/11/2024: Oued Remt to Oued lmehasser
Breakfast is simple as always: a bowl filled with oil, date jam, cheese, bread, and of course a cup of tea. We continued walking through the quiet morning until we reached Oum El Alek, a small oasis that still carries its soul. A small river flows there from an old well. We sat for tea with some of Taher’s friends who manage the place. After filling our water bottles, we continued toward Oued Lmehasser and ended the day with a beautiful sunset.
11/11/2024: Oued lmehasser to Zaouiat sidi abd nbi
We left Oued Lmehasser with the morning breeze, and after about an hour of walking, we met a small group of tourists heading on foot toward Erg Cheguaga, guided by a man from Azilal. We continued onward, passing by Erg Lghoul, a place where mountains and dunes blend into a unique, unforgettable view.
The sharqi wind was against us all day, pushing the sand into our path and making every step heavier. We reached Hassi Labyed, filled our water bottles, and let Chguer drink until he was fully rested. Then we continued toward Lac Iriqui, watching the horizon open wide before us.
12/11/2024: Zaouiat sidi abd nbi to Oued lmedouar sghir
A morning of strong desert wind, and as we walked, we met a nomad riding a small motorbike while watching over his camels, he told us that he was a friend of Fiska had may God have mercy on him, then he continued quietly on his way.
A bit later we came across a true desert legend, also on a motorbike, sitting in the middle of a small green patch, eating calmly in a scene too unique to forget, his name was El Ayadi Mahmoud, a retired soldier, he invited us to share lunch with him, tuna with a light sauce in a clay bowl and bread, we added some of our own tuna and ate together, we laughed together, and I asked to take a picture because his outfit, his posture, and the whole ambiance stayed engraved in my mind as I write this now, he looked like a man who had spent a full lively night and was enjoying the calm of the day.
We thanked him and asked for directions to Lake Iriqui, we followed the path he described, the lake looked close, we kept walking toward the water, but unfortunately it turned out to be a heat mirage, three times we thought we had reached the lake only to find more sand.
When we finally reached the real Lake Iriqui, I walked inside it alone, filled my bottle, and wandered in a landscape I hadn’t seen it in 2021 during my first crossing to foum zguid when the lake was dry, thanks to the rain that fell in October, the lake came back to life after fifty years, imagine a lake in the heart of the desert, magnificent.
I walked out because the ground was full of mud, impossible for Chguer to enter, so we continued toward Lmedouar Sghir, and there we met another nomad named Deriro who was searching for his herd of sixteen camels.
The trail continued with nothing but stones, endless stones, until we spotted a lone talha tree, we decided to spend the night under it, and to our surprise we found a small rainwater pond beneath it, we rested there, filled our water, Chguer drank well, and Taher baked bread on the talha embers, ending a long day full of unexpected moments.
13/11/2024: Oued Lmedouar sghir to Medouar lkbir
The morning was mixed with raindrops, we woke up around 5:45 a.m., collected all our gear and placed it under the camel saddles, wrapping everything in large plastic sheets we had bought in Mhamid, each about 4 meters long. One sheet wrapped the saddles, another one Taher and I used to protect us while we’re sleeping
In the morning, we packed everything and started moving, watching the way nature reclaims its path, how rivers return to their beds and remove anything in the way. We passed Lake Iriqui, dunes, mountains, and patches of greenery, seeing such a view for the first time. We headed toward Lmedouar Lkbir while still enjoying the view of Lmedouar Sghir behind us.
14/11/2024: Plateau Medouar lkbir
A cold night by Oued Lmedouar Lkbir, the river carrying salty water. We filled some bottles and Chguer drank directly from it, camels being the only animals that can handle salty water.
The two necklaces in the pictures are gifts from my friends Oumnia and Iliass, thank you for creating these masterpieces that echo the shapes of the hills in the photos.
Along the way, we met some tourists from the Netherlands near a small oasis in the river. Their guide worked with the Sba3i family.
We reached the Plateau of Medouar Lkbir by crossing tiny roads, and there we met a nomad family. We asked them how life is on this plateau, surrounded by rocky hills. The night illuminated the whole plateau under the moon. I spent the evening preparing a list of things to buy from Douar Mghimima for the next day.
15/11/2024: Plateau Medouar lkbir to oued mghimima
A cold night, we woke up to the rocky landscape of the plateau, a scene I can never forget. The plateau is full of jagged rocks, one of the most beautiful natural views I’ve ever seen. We tried to shorten the path and climbed over the rocky ridges, but unfortunately the trail was difficult, and we couldn’t find a way out of the plateau.
We returned to where we started, aa huge thanks to chguer for it strenght, we found a safe path down the rocks. Along the way, we noticed a well, filled our bottles, Chguer drink also, and rested a little.
Then a nomad came toward us, his name was Youssef from Tagounite. I asked him about Moha, the nomad who accompanied me on my first crossing. i shopwed Youssef a picture of moha ,and he told me he was his friend, I was happy and laughed. Youssef taught us that to exit the plateau, we needed to follow the direction of Oued Mghimima, and we followed the path.
It was dark before we got close to the village, and Chguer was tired from the long, harsh route. This was one of the hardest days for chguer, Thanks to him for his strength. because of him we are near the village.
16/11/2024: Oued Mghimima to Douar zaouiat Mghimima
The night was 100% desertic, full of sandy wind and rain, all of it sharing the night with us. Thanks to the 4-meter plastic covering us and the gear, we stayed safe and dry. After two of the hardest days of this crossing, we finally arrived at Douar Mghimima.
We went straight to the only shop there, called Requia shop. The owner, Requia, runs the shop with her husband. On the map, the shop was marked as “Requia Shop,” and Taher and I laughed at the idea, curious about it and its owner. When we arrived, I was shocked, in the middle of nowhere, a shop that contained everything.
The biggest coincidence was my phone, which I had lost yesterday. Requia was selling it! I respected the soul of my phone, so I didn’t buy it. We bought everything we needed, and I was amazed by this magical shop that really has everything. The neighbor gave us bread, and Requia’s husband gave us 17 kg of dates for free as a gift for the camel. Thanks to their simplicity.
I left my phone at Requia Shop for charging, then we went 500 meters away to set up our tent. I returned to the mosque to pray Asr, checked my phone at Requia’s house, and enjoyed the beauty of the old Zaouia, it has an old Quranic school. Between Maghrib and Isha, we listened to the children reciting the Holy Quran. After Isha, I took my phone back and ended my day talking to my lover.
17/11/2024: Douar zaouiat Mghimima to Oued Rbib
The night was full of winds coming from our next destination, Douar Laayoun. On our way, we passed by Oued Lmaleh and met a lone woman with her sheep. After some conversation, she invited us to drink tea and gave us half of the bread she was preparing in the sand. She also showed us the right direction to follow.
The map showed a range of mountains ahead blocking our path. We found the “Piste Rally,” a track used by rally competition cars to cross this part of the desert. We followed this trail until we reached a wadi covered with green plants. There we met another nomad who advised us on the route to Douar Laayoun for the next day. He told us: “Tomorrow the army radar will detect you, so if the army comes, ask them for the right path to Douar Laayoun via Oued Toufassour.” We thanked him for his guidance.
We camped that night at Oued Rbib. Dinner was pasta and tuna. The thunder rolled across the desert sky, and we felt that rain might come. Special thanks to the nomad from Zagora, Si Yahya, who gave us the names of the rivers we crossed and will cross tomorrow.
18/11/2024: Oued Rbib to Oued Jemeaa
Another thanks to the four-meter plastic that protected us during yesterday’s rain. Thunder and lightning along our path kept us alert, ready for any sudden shower. We met a nomad named Said who showed us the right direction. The heavy rain forced us to stop after 19 km of walking. I set up my Ferrino tent, and we prepared for a rainy night.
Taher’s friend, Si Youssef, an army aide, called to inform us about the upcoming rain. We thanked him and told him the rain had forced us to stop. We prepared a simple salad with onion, tomatoes, and tuna, in the middle of tent, the otther materiel we covered it with plastic. We searched for a safe spot for Chguer to rest peacefully without worrying about the rain. We used the plastic to cover our equipment and even created a small pond to collect rainwater.
19/11/2024: Oued Jemeaa to Laglab (military zone)
A huge thanks to my Ferrino tent that protected us during the rainy night. The small place we prepared to collect water worked perfectly it gathered enough rain for us to fill our 2-liter bottle and even prepare tea. This water is called “Ma Lghdir“the water of the little pond.
From far away, we noticed a large military base, so we headed straight toward it, just as yesterday’s nomad advised: “Inform the military so they can guide you toward Douar Laayoune.” But it wasn’t our lucky day.
The soldiers were shocked to see us arriving at their base without their radar noticing us. We introduced ourselves, and I explained my project, to follow Oued Drâa all the way to Tantan but they refused everything I said. The soldiers were kind, even with AK-47 in their hands. They told me: “It’s not our decision. It’s the captain’s decision. You must return toward Tissint. You cannot cross to Tata from this side of Jbel Bani. You must go around the other side.”
I explained that this would add three extra days of walking. But decisions were already made… I was angry and disappointed. Why can’t I cross this part of Tata province? Yes, it is near the borders… but this decision will add me totality of 120km to arrive to tantan from other side of jbal bani….
I accepted the reality, I also felt sad for the soldiers, for the hard work they do, day and night without seeing their families. May God protect them.
They contacted another military team to join us with a jeep and guide us back toward Piste Tissint. Before we left, they offered us bread and tuna, and they filled all our bottles with water. We thanked them deeply.
We continued the long path with heavy feelings, knowing we had 60km to walk before reaching Tissint. The night was spent beside this piste
20/11/2024: Laglab to Tghit canyon (Tissint)
We spent the night under the moon. In the morning, we met some tourists from the Netherlands. We talked about my path and their path, and they had the same issue with the military of Tata. They told us they were searching for hidden pistes in Tata province to invite their 20 campervan friends and create a circuit together, but the Tata military weren’t open to discussion at all…
After a while, we continued toward Tissint and entered the town. Tissint looks like a small village of “new nomads”, people who left nomadism and decided to settle in stable homes. We bought what we needed from a shop that sells everything, even gasoil. The owner was a blacksmith who repairs doors, sells building materials, gasoline, and food supplies. Another magical store with everything. Shoutout to Requia. I told him: “Allah ytek seha, you have everything here.” He answered: “Yes, I have nothing to do, so I decided to do everything. And people here need everything.” i respect him for this.
Some little kids guided us to the shop where we could buy bread. I thanked them by giving them some sweets, “helwa mint”. They were happy. I returned to Taher, and suddenly the kids came running back toward me. They offered me another piece of bread. I was really touched by their kindness. Thank you, little kids of Tissint.
Some locals heard us talking with the kids and came outside. One man told us: “I want to invite you for dinner or at least a cup of tea.” We thanked him from the heart and informed him of the many kilometers waiting for us ahead, so we continued toward the main road of Tissint.
There, we met the Royal Gendarmerie. They were shocked by the road we had taken, by where we came from, and where we were going. They took our phone numbers and told us they were ready to help us anytime we needed. We thanked them and continued on our way to Tghit Canyon were we spent our night.
21/11/2024: Tghit canyon to Akka iguerne (Tata province)
Breakfast was with a traveling couple from Austria, Thomas and Angelina. After we woke up, they noticed us from their campervan and came to introduce themselves. We introduced ourselves too and had breakfast together.
They told us that in the mountainous and natural regions of Austria, things are becoming more and more luxurious, so it is difficult for them to wild-camp freely with their campervan, not like Morocco, where you can camp safely anytime and anywhere. We also talked about religion. They told us that most people in Austria are neutral, without any belief in religion, and that many think the world was created by coincidence.
I was happy for this couple, because they clearly felt that the world, nature, and these mountains and rivers where we spent the night together, were not created by coincidence. I explained to them that I share the same thought, and that this energy that created everything, the force that connects all things, we call it Allah in our religion. He is the one who created everything that is connected and in harmony.
After that, Si Taher invited them to make a short 2-minute walk with the camel. They were very happy about it. Then we said goodbye and continued our path toward Tata. Along the way, we passed through Tight and Qassbat Lfayja.
22/11/2024: Akka iguerene to Jbal bani (Tata province)
Thanks to God, a night without mosquitos. They were our constant companions every night. We met a nomad and shared a cup of tea with him. We passed through Akka Iguirene and bought some tea and sugar. The local shop even offered us a free piece of bread. Thanks to the shop of Akka Iguirene.
We met a beekeeper in a white suit, placing bee boxes around the acacia trees. He offered us tea, and we thanked him. We rested a little.
For information, the province of Tata contains metfiat, small cement boxes in the ground that gather river water or rainwater, called “Ma Lghdir“. From the morning, we started noticing them, along with the date farms equipped with solar panels.
I was curious why this part of the road, which contains everything, does not have a small hotel or auberge for foreign or local tourists. It would be a good idea to build one here because this road offers some beautiful landscapes.
23/11/2024: Jbal bani to Toug rih
It was a calm night, but the ground was not flat for us. We crossed the rivers and mountains that run parallel to Jbel Bani to take a shortcut to the south of Tata. The first douar on our way was Akka Izengad. To reach it, we had to cross very hard rocky hills and dry riverbeds that divided the road for us and the camel.
We noticed a huge amount of plastic caught in all the acacia trees and plants along this oued. We arrived at the douar with sad feelings. Instead of seeing water in the rivers, the rivers were full of plastic. We bought bread and mint sweets, which helped cool our mouths in the hot desert.
We passed through Souk Lkhmiss Adiss and Toug Rih and bought cigarettes for Taher. We met some locals there who were shocked by our appearance and our journey. The same happened with the Royal Gendarmerie.
We spent a calm night beside the road of Akka, mixed with the sound of passing trucks and my guitar.
24/11/2024: Toug rih to Oued Mechkaoo (Oum el alek commune)
Instead of seeing stars, our stars tonight were the mosquitos, hahaha, our friends as always every night. It was my first time preparing the camel’s saddle, adjusting its weight, and tightening its fastening. I was happy during our walking when I checked it every time and saw it positioned well.
We passed by Douar Tiguane, bought oil and cheese, and filled our bottles. We met a nomad inside the hills of Oued Mechkaou. He is from the Nouaji tribe, located in the Sahara region. It was a windy night, and the fire was pushed along by the wind.
25/11/2024: Oued Mechkaou to Touzounine (Oum el alek commune)
The road was full of dry rivers that made both us and Chguer tired, going up and down across many rocks of different sizes. We crossed Oued Mechkaou and met three nomads who guided us in the right direction. The path was very hard to notice, just a small walking piste hidden between rocks, plants, and riverbeds. The latest rains in the south had damaged all the paths, so everything was blocked or unclear.
We met another nomad carrying a red carpet. He was very kind. We asked him if there was any shop selling meat in Oum El Alek. He told us no, and he offered to go all the way to Akka city to buy it for us, even though it was very far from where we were. We thanked him for his kindness, and he truly made our day brighter.
Finally, we entered Douar Oum El Alek. We bought some tuna, bread, and filled our water bottles. At first sight, the houses looked empty, like no one lived there. But as we kept walking and reached the last houses of the village, we heard a door open. A man was going to his motorbike. He noticed us with the camel and understood immediately that we were travelers. He invited us to his house for lunch. He prepared salad with lentils, ghee and honey, lemon, pomegranate, apples, and of course a cup of tea.
Their names were Id Nasser Hmad and his cousin, the local authority representative (mqadem), Id Nasser Mahjoub. He told us that he had already received phone calls the moment we entered the commune. People described us to him like this: some foreigners arrived in the village, two men, and one of them is probably German because he is very tall, and they are walking with a camel. I laughed and told Mahjoub: nice to meet you, I am the German man. It was a fun moment.
We thanked them for this warm and unexpected moment that truly made our day. Thank you Si Hmad and Si Mahjoub for your hospitality and your trust.
The last thing we did that day was visit the stone sculptures located south of Oum El Alek. They include stone carvings of animals like gazelle, giraffe, unicorn-like shapes, and other animals that only God knows.
26/11/2024: Touzounine to Ait oubli (Akka province)
The morning began with the sound of rally engines echoing across the desert. We passed by Touzounine and bought cigarettes for Taher. We filled our bottles from the last water tap in the douar, hidden beneath an olive tree. As we kept walking, we passed near Douar Igdi, and a man on a motorbike stopped and offered us a can of tuna.
The soft afternoon sun pushed us to reach Ait Oubli, where we planned to recharge our batteries and phones. On the road, we met a man from the village. We walked together for a while, talking, and he told us he would inform the Sheikh and the Mqaddem that we were heading toward their douar.
At the riverbed, we filled a container with “Ma Lghdir,” the small ponds from Oued, to prepare some tea. When night fell, we reached the village and looked for a suitable place to stay near the mosque. The Sheikh, the Mqaddem, and their families welcomed us warmly. We all sat together, sharing tea and stories.
We spent the night beside the house of a man who stayed with us for hours, speaking about Oued Drâa and how the locals live from their seasonal harvests. To enter the Oued, residents must leave their ID cards at the military post because it lies near the border. The same process is required when they exit. Sometimes, they walk 70 km inside the Oued. This surprised me, and to do such distances, one must have great physical endurance.
We also spoke about the decision to forbid watermelon cultivation in Tata province. This decision hit the population extremely hard. For most families, watermelon farming was their main source of income from November until March. Some worked in the fields, others transported the harvest, and landowners rented their plots to farmers. When the ban was announced, a big question appeared: how will all these people live? For many families, these four months were their opportunity to escape poverty and build a better life.
27/11/2024: Ait oubli to Hassi boutjmoueein (Icht province)
The night passed with the rhythm of Ahouach and the peaceful atmosphere of the village. In the morning, the Sheikh visited us and brought bread and cheese. We prepared ourselves and continued toward our next destination. Then we received a call from the Mqaddem of Ait Oubli, Ahmed Lherras, informing us that there was a water well about 20 km ahead. This meant we had a place to spend the coming night.
We reached the well, and the Sheikh of Foum Lhssen arrived on his motorbike. He brought with him chicken and bread. We sat together, prepared some tea, shared food, and said our farewells.
The night was filled with bright, beautiful stars.
28/11/2024: Hassi boutjmoueein to Hassi Anou lhaj (Foum el hisn province)
We filled our water bottles from the well and continued toward our next destination, the rock engravings near the village of Foum El Hisn. Taher and I tried to locate them using Google Maps and the directions we got from a local man, but unfortunately, even after more than two hours of searching, we couldn’t find them.
We then headed toward the well of Anou Lhaj, located beside an incredible landscape of stone hills stacked closely against each other. It was a breathtaking place, one I saved in my memory to return to one day with my wife and family, insha’Allah.
We spent the night next to a nomadic family with white tents settled between the rocky mountains that lie between Bir Anou Lhaj and the douars of Tigfa and Tighert. It was my first time trying to prepare khobez lmella Taher buried it in the hot sand, and I tried to memorize every movement he made so that I could prepare it myself next time.
29/11/2024: Hassi Anou lhaj to Oued inefkn (Assa road)
It was a calm night surrounded by rocky hills. In the morning, we went to collect our phones and batteries that we had left with the nomadic family in the white tents, but unfortunately, none of them had charged. So it was time to rely once again on my solar panel. I placed it on the camel’s saddle, and we continued our way.
We passed through the douars of Tigfa and Tighert hoping to buy some food, but neither village had a shop. We looked for a well to water our camel Chguer, but we couldn’t find one. At the beginning of the Tighert piste, a group of nomads saw us and invited us for a cup of tea and to refill our water bottles.
The paved road was empty, with only a few military trucks passing by, and there was no phone network at all. As the day moved on, we searched for a good spot to spend the night, a place in a sandy oued where we could prepare Khobz l mella. This time, I was determined to make it alone, from start to finish.
Before sunset, five young men passed by in an old car. They noticed us and stopped to drink tea. They were from different parts of Morocco, and even from my hometown, Taounate. It was a warm and unexpected meeting in the middle of silence.
Thank you, Taher, for teaching me how to prepare Khobez l mella
30/11/2024: Oued inefken to Anou wayis (Assa road)
The road between Foum El Hisn and Assa is completely empty, a long stretch of silence where only the camel walks and rests whenever he wants. As we got closer to Assa, the weather became stormy and heavy. On the way, we met a nomad who gifted us a handful of seeds to snack on during the walk.
We spent the night about 15 km before reaching Assa, under a sky full of wind and clouds, waiting for the next morning to continue our journey.
01/12/2024: Anou wayis to Hassi Boudghougha (Door of Oued Drâa)
The night felt more like a night of vigilance than rest, very different from all the nights we had spent before, because we were so close to the city of Assa. In the morning, we bought the last things we needed before entering Oued Drâa.
We met a young man who had been a political detainee for more than twenty years. He showed us where to buy chicken and wished us luck. We also met a tourism manager, a generous man, who helped me return to Taher after we had separated in the city so that we could buy the food we still needed.
Dinner that night felt royal: lentils, lemo, peppers, spices, and of course the khobz l mella that i just I baked.
As the journey moves toward its final chapters, I feel it inside m, tomorrow we will officially enter Oued Drâa.
Sometimes, an odd feeling comes to me… as if everything I’m living is a dream, because of how intense and surreal each moment of this journey is.
02/12/2024: Oued Drâa ( Hassi Boudghougha to Magtae bo neeja
Sleeping far from cities always brings a quiet and peaceful feeling, without noise or lights and without thinking about safety. In the morning, we collected the chicken pieces that we had separated the night before and left to dry on Acacia branches. During long desert crossings this method helps to preserve chicken and meat. While walking we keep the meat away from the sun, and when we stop in the evening we put it on the branches so the wind dries it. It becomes similar to dried meat that nomads call Tishtar.
We passed near Hassi Boudghougha and found salty water.
Many families in the region benefit from Oued Draa for agriculture. The soil there is formed from “qoliee“, which happens when the water of Oued Draa gathers between the surrounding mountains. The water forms small natural ponds called Ma Lghdir, and with time it enriches the soil with minerals and salts. This makes the land fertile and useful for farming. For many people, this land is their main source of living.
Our camel Chguer also enjoyed the valley. The area is full of desert plants rich in water such as lgueret, lhenzab and lmekherssa. These plants are perfect food for a strong camel continuing its journey.
03/12/2024: Oued Drâa (Magtae bou neeja to Nkhilet Leeouina)
It was a night without mosquitoes and slightly cold, thanks to the large green areas inside the Oued. In the morning, we met some nomads who guided us toward the right path and offered us some milk. The curves and bends of the Oued were tiring for both us and Chguer.
I decided to call it the World of Drâa, not just Oued Drâa, because of the incredible amount of life it holds: nomads, camels, sheep, goats, green lands, and the nomad trucks moving slowly over the hills and plains. Drâa is truly a world of its own, made of many shapes of life. Thank you, Drâa, for attracting all these animals and people who live from your soil, your water, your air and your peace. You are a planet on your own.
We headed to spend the night in Nkhilet Leouina, a small area filled with palm trees and a basin of salty water that comes from the surrounding mountains.
04/12/2024: Oued Drâa (Nkhilet Lêeouina to Guaêet lguerara)
The night was calm and warm, thanks to the dinner of the previous night. We had lentils, chicken, and khobz l mella. We continued on our path and met some young men from the local villages who were exploring the area. They were climbing yellow hills. We walked with them, and they explained that these mountains were originally clay hills, long ago covered with water. In the past, the area was full of water, but now the water has disappeared, leaving the mountains as ancient stone formations similar to coral.
They shared four pieces of these ancient stone formations with us and invited us for lunch, which was a tagine of chicken and Tishtar, the dried meat. We also added some tuna to our meal. These young men were among the kindest people, with warm hearts and clear generosity. They guided us toward the right path.
After parting from them, we continued along a clay mountain and discovered three more ancient coral-like formations around Guaêet Lguerara. Thank you Ider and Hmad for your kindness and hospitality.
05/12/2024: Guaêet Leguerara to Oum Aârich)
The night was cold, with the green plants of Oued Drâa around us. Three female camels came at 3 am, and we moved them away from Chguer to avoid any problems. ( in general, in any camel group there is one male in charge of the group. If that male senses another male approaching his females, they fight until one of them wins and becomes the leader of the herd.)
We met two nomad brothers from Guelmim who offered us camel milk and water of Ghdir. They explained that this water is collected with great care and is perfect for drinking and for making tea. On this crossing, I’m learning so much from the people we meet, how they value every small detail of life. For these two brothers, water of lghdir is like a treasure; if you carry it with you as a nomad, you’re a king in the desert, hhhh. We were very happy to receive a bottle of Ma Lghdir. Many thanks to Mahjoub Rekhaoui and his brother.
The curves of Oued Drâa guided us toward the south of Jbal Wark Ziz and the beginning of Oum Aârich. We spent the night beside the white tent of Lassiad Rekhaoui. They invited us to stay with them, and we enjoyed laughter, energy, and Tuareg blues desert guitar music. We also talked about the life of nomads with Lassiad’s friend Khatri Sarkouh.
The hospitality of Lassiad Rekhaoui and Khatri was exceptional. They baked bread for us for dinner and even bread to carry with us on our path. They shared everything they had, including camel milk and dates, so we could continue the night well nourished. Thank you from my heart, Lassiad Rekhaoui and Khatri Sarkouh.
06/12/2024: Oued Draa (Oum Aarich to Khenig ali)
The morning was calm and warm. Lassiad Rekhaoui woke up early, made a fire, and prepared breakfast. We ate, laughed, greeted them warmly, and said goodbye after receiving their generous hospitality. Thank you from my heart.
We headed toward Khenig Ali, where we would leave Oued Drâa. After seven hours of walking, we arrived and met the driver of an old army jeep, known as Sultana in the south. He gave us milk and bread and we showed him the path to Nkhilet Leouina, where we spent the third night in Oued Drâa.
07/12/2024: Oued Draa (Khenig Ali to telmzoune)
The path from Khenig Ali was deserted. We passed through Ghwinem, climbed and descended rocky hills called Dada ali, and the terrain guided us toward Tafraout Ytoussa, which was simple and empty douar. From there, we continued our climbs and descents until we reached Oued Telmzoune.
We met Abd Majid, a resident of Telmzoune, near a small water collection point (Metfia). He showed us the right path, which was very helpful because we had been a little lost. His hospitality and kindness were unforgettable. After guiding us, we bought the items we needed: bread, dates, tuna, and a pack of Fortuna cigarettes for Taher. Many thanks to Abd Majid for his generosity.
08/12/2024: Telmzoune to commune ben khelil (Tantan)
The night was cold. We climbed the last rocky hills before arriving at Telmzoune. We met the Sheikh and the local leaders of Telmzoune. We shared a cup of tea and talked with the Sheikh in his shop before continuing our path.
There are many small water collection points (metfiat with Ma lghdir) along the way, which made Taher and me feel comfortable, knowing water was available. We also met many drivers on the road. Everyone wanted to help us, even when we didn’t need it. One of them, a Berber man named Lanssari, who works at the meteorite stone market, offered us about 500 dirhams (50 USD). We didn’t need it, but it was a kind gesture, showing how people support travelers on this journey.
As we approached Tantan, I felt happiness and shared many of my feelings with my wife over the phone. That day was the most active of the journey so far: we walked 42 km, entering and exiting Tantan, heading toward the Ben Khelil commune, 7 km west of Tantan. There, we were welcomed by Taher’s cousin and his family.
Dinner was royal, with hospitality of the highest order. I will never forget this simple and beautiful family, and I hope to visit them again whenever I pass by their commune. Thank you Si Aarbi Chbani and your lovely family. i’ll never forget these moments shared with you and how you considered me more than your child and brother.
09/12/2024: ben khelil to foum oued draa (Ocean)
The last day of our journey was windy. We left Ben Khelil and headed toward Foum Oued Drâa, where the Oued meets the ocean. The paved road from Ben Khelil was full of wind, making the walk challenging.
Along the way, we met two guys camping in the sand beside the road. Two bikes were leaning near their tent. When we called to them, they came out, their faces covered with sand. They explained that they had woken up early in Tantan and decided to hike by bike to Foum Oued Drâa, but the wind had other plans, so they stopped. We helped stabilize their tent and offered them some biscuits and water.
After four and a half hours of walking, we finally reached our last destination: where the Oued meets the Atlantic Ocean. The military stationed there welcomed us with tea. Thank you for your kindness.
A huge thanks to everyone who made this crossing possible: the nomadic life camp (Si Khalifa, Mubarak, and Si Sbaei Abass), all the authorities who eased our path, every simple nomad who shared laughs, stories, and encouragement, Chguer for his strength without which we could not have completed the journey, and Si Taher Manssour, who taught me how to manage a camel, handle the saddle, prepare khobz l mella, and live like a nomad.
