01/03/2021: Mhamid el ghizlan to Oued Laatach
The journey preparations began at the home of my friend Si El-Houssein Azmamar and his family in M’Hamid El Ghizlane. We were joined by Si Moha, the nomad from Tagounite, who accompanied me on this crossing. We prepared everything needed for the road: food, water, and supplies, all carefully loaded onto the camels. Through Si Moha’s deep knowledge of the desert and its people, I began to discover its hidden spirit. We took our first steps on a long path towards Foum Zguid — 130 kilometers of sand, silence, and discovery awaited us. On this first day, we covered 20 kilometers from M’Hamid El Ghizlane to Oued L’Aatach, passing through Lbour, with a one-and-a-half-hour stop to prepare a lunch of tagine and tea.
02/03/2021: Oued Laatach to Erg Lghoul
After a calm night under the stars, we woke up at 7 am. And prepared our breakfast: bread, cheese, date jam, and tea with a little oil. We started our journey, covering 25 km to Erg Lghoul, one of the highest dunes in Erg Chguaga. It is called by that name because of the loud sound made by the wind and sand in this erg, like the roar of a monster in a forest. Along the way, we tried to gather all the garbage we found, using a small collector I bought for 25 DH (~2.5 USD).
03/03/2021: Erg Lghoul to Lake Iriki
We left Erg Lghoul early in the morning, ready for the next stage of our journey. That day, we walked 25 kilometers, most of the way along Lake Iriki, in an area known as Ghuiret Lemless. The sight was breathtaking. The dry lake stretched to the horizon like a ghost forgotten by time, lying between the dunes as if it were a hidden secret at the heart of the desert. Its stillness was not mere silence, but a deep hush whispering ancient secrets that only those who cross this place can hear. It was hard to believe that this barren expanse was once a real lake, alive with water, migratory birds, and animals. Now, all that remains is its profound silence. Each step on the sand left only a faint trace, quickly swallowed by the void, as if the desert refused to keep the memory of those who passed. In this endless emptiness, beauty mingled with awe, isolation with wonder — turning this stage of the journey into something closer to a mysterious dream than a reality we lived.
04/03/2021: Lake Iriki to Lmedouar Sghir
We woke up in Oued Isassi, ready to continue our journey. Today we traveled from Lake Iriki to Lmedouar Sghir, crossing the rocky terrain of the desert. The path was challenging, with landscapes full of jagged rocks and uneven trails. Each step reminded us of the Sahara’s diversity — from soft sand dunes to harsh, rugged stones. Despite the difficulty, the scenery was breathtaking, making this leg of the journey both tough and unforgettable.
5/03/2021: Lmedouar Sghir to Foum Zguid
Nous nous sommes réveillés avec le lever du soleil sur Lmedouar Sghir, l’une de mes vues préférées dans le désert marocain. Les paysages rocheux me rappellent toujours la grandeur de Dieu — un chef-d’œuvre qui a traversé l’histoire. Après avoir rangé nos affaires, nous avons pris la route vers Foum Zguid, un village niché entre deux montagnes. Au lieu de terminer la traversée ce jour-là, nous avons choisi de passer notre dernière nuit en périphérie du village. Nous avons campé près de quelques nomades, parents de Si Moha, profitant du calme du soir désertique alors que notre voyage touchait à sa fin.
